San Francisco is a small city geographically, but from the beatniks to the tech bros it has long had an outsize cultural footprint. And it manages to contain upwards of 43 neighborhoods, each of which has its own character and specialty. If you’re a tourist who wants to get a taste of the real SF, the question is—which one?
The abundance of worthwhile neighborhoods in a relatively small city can make figuring out where to stay complicated and confusing. The tourism bureaus would have you think that the spot to be is Fisherman’s Wharf—and even though we love it for bowls of clam chowder in sourdough bread bowls, visiting the sea lions, Irish coffees at Buena Vista Cafe, and local seafood, it’s also jam-packed with souvenir shops and tourists.
So we’ve got some other ideas about the best places to stay, fun things to do, and most importantly, where to eat and drink in San Francisco. You may not be from the Bay Area, but with this guide you’ll hella seem like you are. Especially if you remember to pack that jacket and never ever ever call it “San Fran.”
For the preppy outdoorsperson: Cow Hollow/Marina
People tend to conflate Cow Hollow and the Marina, which are actually divided by the major thoroughfare of Lombard Street (Cow Hollow is to the north; the Marina to the south), but for the purposes of a fun weekend, that works just fine. Some people avoid these affluent neighborhoods because of their vast numbers of hard partying yuppies, fitness studios, and athleisure shops, but it’s also a gorgeous part of the city with outdoor spaces, waterfront views, and top-tier bars, restaurants, and shopping.
Don't miss: The Presidio National Park
Explore the Presidio, a former military fort that’s now a 1,491-acre national park home to tons of hikes with scenic overlooks, four installations from artist Andy Goldsworthy, Fort Point (a masonry seacoast fortification that sits right below the Golden Gate Bridge), the San Francisco National Cemetery (which has a very peaceful overlook that’s easily accessible), the Walt Disney Family Museum, several great restaurants, and much more.
If you’re into architecture, you’ll want to visit the Palace of Fine Arts, a stunning structure built for the 1915 Panama-Pacific exhibition; the McElroy Octagon House, which is a house with eight sides that was built in 1861; and the Haas-Lilienthal House, a Queen Anne-style home constructed in 1886 that shows off the opulence and grandeur of a time long gone. If you’re in the mood to shop, eat, and drink, all you need to do is walk down Union Street, Fillmore Street, or Chestnut Street, and you’ll find plenty of all three.
Where to eat in Cow Hollow and The Marina:
For a fancy breakfast, Rose’s Cafe is a great choice, especially if you love a Breakfast Pizza (it comes with smoked ham, fontina, and sunny-side-up eggs). The newest addition to the Presidio is the Presidio Tunnel Tops, a huge green space above the Presidio tunnels, with never-before-appreciated views of the bridge and Bay. Go between 9 am and 5 pm to find some of SF’s best food trucks.
It’s not a successful visit to Cow Hollow if you don’t stop by The Black Horse London Pub, the smallest bar in San Francisco (7 feet wide by 19 feet deep), where the beer is kept in a clawfoot tub filled with ice. For dinner there’s the classic Balboa Cafe, which remains as popular now as it was when it opened in 1913 (order the burger); A16, one of the best Italian spots in town; and for a vegetarian or vegan meal, try Greens on the water with panoramic views, or Wildseed, a vegan spot on Union Street.
Where to stay in Cow Hollow and The Marina:
This is a pretty residential area, and though there are a smattering of old school motels along Lombard Street, that street is a major thoroughfare without much aesthetic appeal. If you do want to go that route, Hotel del Sol is a cute, funky, and relatively affordable option, but you may be better off at the Inn at the Presidio, a historic hotel that was once a home for bachelor officers when the Presidio was a U.S. Army post and is the perfect destination for those who want to enjoy nature while still being within walking distance of everything fun. Its sister property Lodge at the Presidio is also fantastic, though the location is a little less hidden since it’s right on the Main Post. The building used to be barracks that housed six artillery companies, a cavalry troop, and two infantry companies, but now the rooms are clean and modern with views of the forest or the Bay.
For Deadheads, hippies, and park wanderers: Cole Valley/Upper Haight/Golden Gate Park
These three places could not be more different, but that makes it the perfect area for one great weekend. Cole Valley is a little stretch with great bars and restaurants. The Upper Haight, or “Haight-Ashbury” as the tourists still call it, gave us the Summer of Love and the Grateful Dead and still represents all of that 50+ years later. And at the end of Haight Street is where the iconic Golden Gate Park begins, spanning over 1,000 acres of museums, gardens, lakes, and history.
Don't miss: '60s-inspired shopping and a massive park
You can’t go to the Haight without spending a little time exploring the shops. Whether you’re looking for vintage clothing, expensive sneakers, a new bong, or something tie-dye, Haight Street has it all. And since you’re there, you should also take a picture in front of the Grateful Dead House at 710 Ashbury Street where Jerry Garcia and other band members lived from 1965 to 1968.
The other must-explore area is Golden Gate Park. You could spend a week wandering around the massive park and still not see everything, but highlights include the California Academy of Sciences, which is among the largest museums of natural history in the world (go on a Thursday night for the 21+ party with co*cktails and DJs); the de Young Museum, a fine arts museum with great special exhibitions (the Harmon Observation Tower, which has 360-degree panoramic views of the city is free, as is the sculpture garden); the Japanese Tea Garden, the oldest public Japanese garden in the U.S.; and the Conservatory of Flowers. Walking around Stow Lake and up Strawberry Hill is a fun, mellow hike, and you can also rent rowboats and pedal boats, an experience we find is even better enjoyed if followed by a beer at the Boat House.
Where to eat in the Haight and Cole Valley:
If you’re looking for a breakfast to cure last night’s adventures, try the Pork Store Cafe, a no-frills diner with food that is both hearty and delicious. For a more leisurely brunch or a romantic dinner, the back garden at Zazie, an adorable French-inspired bistro, is the best choice, though the wait can sometimes be a bit long. There are two bars that are must-visits on Haight Street: The Alembic, which pioneered the craft co*cktail movement in San Francisco, and Aub Zam Zam, a dimly lit Persian-inspired bar that’s been around since 1941 and is famous for its martinis. If you’re a beer drinker, it’s worth walking east into the Lower Haight for the legendary Toronado, a cash-only dive bar of the highest order, with what may be the best beer list in the city.
Where to stay in the Haight and Cole Valley:
Like so much of San Francisco, this area is very residential, but there are a few good options, starting with the Stanyan Park Hotel, a boutique Victorian hotel with San Francisco charm. In the Upper Haight, family-owned Metro Hotel is an affordable and cozy option with vintage decor and a relaxing garden patio.
For hip restaurants and vibrant culture: The Mission
The Mission has become one of the city’s most popular neighborhoods thanks to its warmer and sunnier microclimate, lots of trendy bars and restaurants, its arts and music scene, and the lovely Dolores Park. The Mission was historically a Latinx neighborhood and it has undergone rapid and extreme gentrification over the last two decades, but local activists are doing their best to make sure the heart of this vibrant neighborhood keeps beating.
Don't miss: A picnic in Dolores Park
Dolores Park is the center of The Mission. Consider grabbing a burrito or ice cream from Bi-Rite Creamery there to enjoy while sitting on the hill, people-watching, and taking in the views. Misión San Francisco de Asís (Mission Dolores), the oldest surviving structure in San Francisco (1791), is just a couple of blocks away; stop in to learn about its unique history and architecture, as well as to spend some time in the cemetery and gardens. The Mission is also home to two mural projects: the Clarion Alley Mural Project (CAMP), where the murals support “political, economic, and social justice messaging,” and Precita Eyes Muralists, dedicated to building community around the art of mural-making. Mostly though, you’ll have fun just wandering into all of the eclectic shops that line the streets, where you’ll find books, clothing, taxidermy, a Pirate Supply Store, and more. If you’re looking for a night-time activity, check out Mission Bowling Club, a boutique bowling alley with great food and drinks. In the mood for live music? See who’s playing at The Chapel, a funeral home-turned-amazing music venue.
Where to eat in the Mission:
Of course, you can’t go to the Mission without getting a burrito. The world will never agree on which taqueria has the best one, but El Farolito, La Taqueria, Pancho Villa, and Taqueria Cancun will all leave you very happy and very full. For dinner, Delfina, a classic Italian spot responsible for helping make the Mission a dining destination, is excellent. If you want something more laidback, head to Zeitgeist for burgers, beer, and gruff service in a (sometimes) sunny beer garden. If we’re forced to play favorites among the Mission’s many bars, we’ll say ABV, Trick Dog, and The Beehive for co*cktails, El Techo for rooftop margaritas, and True Laurel for excellent co*cktails and food.
Where to stay in the Mission:
Since this is a residential neighborhood—despite an abundance of shops, bars, and restaurants—there aren’t a lot of hotels. Union Square is not too far, but if you’re determined to stay in the area, there are a few options. We’ve got the Inn San Francisco, a bed and breakfast in an 1872 Victorian mansion, and Nineteen 06 Mission, an affordable, no-frills, but clean and comfortable hotel with shared bathrooms.
For a blend of history and high energy: North Beach
No one in San Francisco calls North Beach “Little Italy,” but it’s probably the best way to describe this touristy part of town that is known for its Italian roots, being the epicenter of the Beat Generation, bumping up against Chinatown, and well, innovating the strip club industry (the Condor Club, which opened in 1964, was the first topless bar in the U.S.).
Don't miss: The best views of the Bay
Get a workout by climbing the Filbert Street Steps to the top of Telegraph Hill. On your way, you’ll get unique views of the city and might catch a glimpse of the famous wild parrots who live there. Once at the top, play tourist and go up Coit Tower, a 210-foot Deco fluted tower built in 1933 with some of the best 360-degree views of the San Francisco Bay you’ll find. Be sure to check out the murals at the bottom as well, which were commissioned in 1933 and many of which express ideas of racial equality and Marxist views.
You’ll also want to stop by City Lights Bookstore, which was founded in 1953, and whose original owner is famous for publishing Allen Ginsberg’s Howl and Other Poems and was, as a result, tried for obscenity.
Where to eat in North Beach:
Liguria Bakery is worth the wait in line; the only thing on the menu is focaccia, in ten different varieties. if you have to pick one, pick the pizza, and be sure to bring cash. As far as dinner goes, you need to do Italian at least once. Fior d’Italia serves mounds of pasta and has an authentic Italian vibe. Sotto Mare is the best combo of Italian and seafood you’ll find in SF and has always-fresh oysters, as well as a killer cioppino. If you’ve worked up a serious appetite during your daytime adventures, settle into a booth at Original Joe’s, where you’ll enjoy potent martinis and classic Italian-American fare with enormous portions. For drinks, check out 15 Romolo, a back-alley bar with a jukebox that will make you want to stay all night, Vesuvio Cafe, a go-to spot for Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg back in the day, Specs’ Twelve Adler Museum Cafe, a bar with cheap drinks that is also part museum with things like historic mugshots, postcards from around the world, and even a whale penis bone, and The Devil’s Acre, a co*cktail “apothecary” with co*cktails to cure everything that ails you.
Where to stay in North Beach:
North Beach is within walking distance of Fisherman’s Wharf, which, as one of San Francisco's most popular tourist destinations, has tons of hotels. Our favorite boutique hotels are the Argonaut Hotel, a nautical-themed hotel in a historic exposed brick building; Hotel Zephyr, a waterfront hotel with an outdoor lounge with fire pits, shuffleboard, and other games; and Hotel Zoe, a recently remodeled hotel with high-tech touches in relaxing and contemporary rooms.
For art and sports: SoMa
SoMa (South of Market) is a more recently developed area that used to be home to warehouses, but is now where you’ll find lots of SF’s tech companies, some great museums, and Oracle Park, where the San Francisco Giants play ball.
Don't miss: The best museums in the city
SoMa has some of SF’s best art museums. See contemporary art at SFMOMA, one of the largest modern art museums in the world. Celebrate the global impact of pan-African cultures at the Museum of African Diaspora (MOAD). Learn about the range and diversity of Jewish experiences at the Contemporary Jewish Museum. And, just a few blocks north of the SoMa boundary, take in one of the finest collections of Asian art in the world at the Asian Art Museum.
After museum hopping, catch a Giants game at Oracle Stadium. It’s not quite SoMa, but just a hop, skip, and Uber or short walk away in Mission Bay, you can play miniature golf on a course that’s all about California history at Stagecoach Greens, snack on food from around the world (and enjoy adult beverages) at Spark Social SF, a food truck park and beer garden, and catch a Golden State Warriors game (or a concert) at the Chase Center.
Where to eat in SoMa:
If you’re a sandwich fanatic, then a visit to the Deli Board is a must for massive sandwiches with a creative flair. 1601 Bar & Kitchen is a contemporary Sri Lankan restaurant that’s a bit off of the beaten path but worth the mini trek. Mourad is a gorgeous Michelin-starred restaurant with food and co*cktails to match. Settle in for a glass or three of wine (or whiskey) at District, a wine bar and lounge close to the ballpark, and end the night at Kona’s Street Market, where you can sip co*cktails made by SF’s best bartenders.
Where to stay in SoMa:
There’s a Marriott and an InterContinental in SoMa, but those are for the tech-centric conference-goers. Instead, try The Palace Hotel, which is technically a Marriott, but not like a Marriott at all in that it’s a hotel and a history lesson all wrapped up in one. It’s over 100 years old, completely decadent, and it’s where green goddess dressing was invented. Hotel Zelos is much more modern and also has a rooftop bar, which is always a good thing. The Beacon Grand, a newly remodeled iconic hotel in Union Square, is also a lovely spot to call home for a few days as it merges old-world artisanship and contemporary comforts, has several amazing dining options, and is central to shopping, Chinatown, the Financial District, SoMa, the theater, museums, and more.
For the mellow nature-seeker: Inner Richmond/Inner Sunset
In an area so compact and surrounded by water, it’s not really fair to describe any part of the city proper as a suburb. But if you’re looking for a slightly slower pace and a family-friendly vibe, the neighborhoods that border Golden Gate Park to the north and south are a great option. There’s less nightlife but plenty of great restaurants, and easy access to the park, the beach, and the North Bay if you want to venture out.
Don't miss: Land's End Lookout and Golden Gate Park
That big beautiful park is right there, with all of the fun activities and museums within easy walking distance. Ditto The Presidio, just a few short blocks north. It’s also an easy bus ride or drive out west on Geary to gorgeous Land’s End Lookout, which has hikes along the windswept Pacific coast, views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Sutro Baths, and lots of crisp, fragrant ocean air. If you want to get closer to the iconic bridge this is a good base camp to do that, and you’re close enough to sites like The Painted Ladies of Alamo Square and Twin Peaks park.
Where to eat in the Inner Richmond and Inner Sunset:
The restaurant scene has come up in recent years, but there was already a solid starting point—legends like Mandalay, Burma Superstar, Cinderella, and Arsicault are well-established local favorites. Check out Prik Hom for elegant Thai food, Breadbelly for creative pastries and brunch, and The Coffee Movement for a remarkable pourover. On the south side of the park, the 9th Ave corridor is the place to be, with great choices like Tartine, Fiorella, Arizmendi, and more. There are fewer essential bars in the area, but the new-ish Cantina Los Mayas is fun and grown up, with a great selection of Mexican wines to pair with their excellent Yucatecan cuisine.
Where to stay in the Inner Richmond and Inner Sunset:
Hotels in the immediate vicinity are few and far between, and the ones that exist are not super appealing. Your best bet may be an app-based home stay or looking a little further west at options like The Laurel Inn.
Daisy Barringeris an SF-based freelance writer who is taking advantage of these strange times by exploring San Francisco on foot. Follow her onInstagramto see where she goes next.
Ben Mesirowis Thrillist's LA Staff Writer, and an Echo Park native who writes TV, fiction, food, and sports. At one time or another, his writing has appeared in The LA Times, Litro, McSweeney’s Internet Tendency, Los Angeles Magazine, and scratched into dozens of desks at Walter Reed Middle School.
